Heat & Air conditioning

Who should I buy air conditioning and/or get service from?

Air conditioning/heating systems should be bought from dealers recommended by major manufacturers through their dealer locator services. Major HVAC manufacturers are extremely concerned about customer satisfaction and recommend dealers that have been well trained in installation of their equipment and provide a good value for the consumer. If for any reason you are not satisfied with your installation or equipment, you can go directly to the manufacturer and the manufacturer can usually insure that you are satisfied, if the manufacturer recommended the dealer.

What if I have a two-story house?

It's very difficult to maintain comfort in a two-story house with one heating and air system. This is because hot air rises moving directly to the upstairs areas. The bigger the opening, from the downstairs to the upstairs, the more severe the problem. There are several ways to solve the problem. One is to put in two systems, one for the upstairs and one for the downstairs. The second is to put in a zoning system. Two systems will give you the advantage of a backup system in case one fails. However, if the upstairs system fails in the summer, there is really no way you can cool the upstairs bedrooms with the system downstairs. If the downstairs system fails in the winter, it's difficult to get heat from the upstairs area to the downstairs. The advantage of a zoning system is that it is less expensive than two complete systems. The maintenance is less, because you're only maintaining one system, and you have the capability of putting all of the cooling or heating upstairs or downstairs. For example, having a three- system upstairs and a two-ton system downstairs, on a really hot night, ton you could only get three tons of cooling upstairs, whereas with the zoning system, you could get all five tons upstairs to cool the bedrooms if you needed it. This is less expensive than putting in two complete systems; however, it is still fairly expensive for existing homes. For new home construction, where the ductwork has not already been installed and enclosed, this would be the way to go, as expense is not that great for this option.

What efficiency equipment should I buy?

Usually the more efficient the better. Up to 13 SEER for air conditioning equipment and heat pumps, 92% efficient for gas heating equipment. This is especially true if you are in hot areas (summer) and cold areas (winter) and, of course, are paying the heating bills. Heating and air conditioning is the major part of your utility bills. For most areas 75% or more. SEER stands for seasonal energy efficiency ratio and is a measure of efficiency sort of like miles per gallon for your car. Many older air conditioning systems have SEERs of 6.5. If you buy a new air conditioning unit with a SEER of 13, you will cut your cooling cost in half. To find the difference in operating cost of two SEER units, just divide the smaller number by the larger number (i.e.; a 13 SEER unit costs 76.9% as much to operate as a 10 SEER unit. 10/13=.769. For furnaces, a 92% furnace costs 86.9% as much to run as an 80% furnace). Since air conditioning units can last 15 years or more and furnaces 30 years or more, the operating cost savings of the more efficient systems pay for themselves many times the difference in the first cost. Your dealer has operating cost programs that can show you the anticipated savings you can get with higher efficiency equipment. As an added benefit, higher efficiency equipment usually is higher quality, lasts longer, and is quieter than lower efficiency equipment. The lowest efficiency equipment that can be sold in the U.S. today is 10 SEER for air conditioning equipment and 78% efficiency for furnaces.

Tip: Buying a high efficiency heating & air conditioning system can result in a higher resale value for your house. In fact two recent studies published in the Appraisal Journal found that each one-dollar in annual energy savings adds $20 to your home's resale value.

What type of thermostat should I buy?

Even though a thermostat is one of the least expensive items that you will buy when you buy a heating and air conditioning system, it is very important because it is the interface between you and the heating and air conditioning equipment. We would suggest that you purchase a digital thermostat that can be run as either a programmable or a non-programmable thermostat. The difference between the costs is nominal. If you do decide you want to save energy by programming lower temperatures when you're away from the house and when you go to sleep at night, then you can receive those opportunity cost savings. We definitely recommend that you purchase a digital thermostat that contains no poisonous and polluting mercury and is also much more accurate. If you buy one that is continuously backlit, you can see it at night or in hallways with large easy to see numbers.

Can I work on my own air conditioner?

Yes of course! Your air conditioner is the biggest investment in machinery you have in your home. Keeping your coils outside clean, the filters replaced every month, even preventing ants from living around your outside unit are very important chores you need to do. When you have energy efficiency questions, want to know how to get savings on your utility bills, and repair or replacement needs, Mooneyham Heating & Air is there to answer all of your air and heating questions.

How often should filters be cleaned or replaced?

Filters should be replaced or cleaned once a month. We recommend using pleated replacement filters (throw-a-way). Electrostatic permanent filters, in our experience, have caused problems and we do not recommend their use. Pleated filters are wonderful, but a little expensive. Disposable filters should be replaced with filters of the type and size as the original filter.

Should outdoor units be covered in winter?

No. Air conditioners that operate seasonally are built to withstand an outdoor environment. There is no advantage to covering an air conditioning unit during off seasons. In fact, rain helps to keep the unit clean, particularly if you live in an area close to the coastline where salt air is prevalent. Heat pumps operate year round and should never be covered.

Can I cover my outside unit to keep the sun off?

Please don't. Unless you can put the cover 7 feet in the air, don't try to sunshade the condenser (outside unit). The cover blocks the unit's ability to get the hot air out. If the unit gets the hot air it just exhausted right back into it, it overheats and costs much money for you. It could damage the unit as well.

Should a thermostat be set to "auto" or "on"?

When the thermostat is set to "auto", the fan operates only when the temperature requires it. This is the most used setting. However, there are advantages to using the "on" setting. First of all, the air in the house is constantly filtered through the unit's air filter. Secondly, the constantly circulating air results in an even temperature throughout the house.

Can shrubs and flowers be planted around an outdoor unit?

Yes. However, we recommend that plants be no closer than 18 inches from the unit. This allows plenty of room for air circulation in and out of the unit. Without this room for air circulation, the unit could overheat, resulting in a premature need for service.

If an outdoor unit needs replacing, should the indoor unit be replaced, too?

It is a good idea to replace the entire system when a major component of the system fails to operate correctly, and cannot be repaired. That's because Trane, and many other brands of air conditioning and heating units are designed to operate as a complete, matched system. The efficiency rating is based on the entire system. To gain the maximum benefit of new, highly efficient technology, the entire system should be replaced together. This ensures the system is reliable and efficient.

How do you know what size system a house needs?

Which system is best for a particular application is best determined by your air conditioning professional (Mooneyham Heat & Air Conditioning). There are many variables to be considered......type of windows, insulation of the house, number of people in the house, etc. We will consider all of these factors in making a recommendation.

How about a "ballpark" estimate?

A good budget number to work with is two to five dollars per square foot. If someone wants more money than that, they're probably overcharging. If they're willing to do it for less, then they must be using the cheapest equipment, materials, and labor available on the market. You can easily end up with a system that doesn't work right.

How frequently should I maintain my equipment?

You should have a thorough inspection and cleaning of your system each pre-season. Monthly filter changes are recommended unless you have an air cleaner.

Are there benefits to better air filters?

Yes. High efficiency air cleaners do a much better job of removing airborne particulate. This is especially useful if you or someone in your home has allergies. To get maximum benefit from an air cleaner, you should run your fan continuously.

Should I have my ducts cleaned? How often?

Properly sealed ducts along with regular maintenance are usually sufficient and require little cleaning. Duct cleaning is recommended if the duct system is old and leaking. All leaks need to be sealed after cleaning. It is also a good idea to have ducts cleaned after a major renovation to remove debris.

What do zoning controls do in your home?

Zoning helps to maintain even temperatures throughout a home by independently controlling each zone. This is accomplished by using zone dampers to regulate airflow to each zone.

What should I check before calling for service?

Always check your thermostat settings and make sure the proper mode is selected. Many thermostats have batteries that should be replaced at least once a year. Check to make sure you have power to each piece of equipment. Check breakers, switches, and disconnects. Inspect around your furnace and air conditioner. Look for anything unusual.

How long should an air conditioner last?

The average life of an air conditioner/ heat pump in the sub-tropic climate of the Milton, FL area seems to be from ten to fifteen years, depending on a variety of particulars such as, care, usage, and probably the most important, a correct installation at the beginning. In northern climates an air conditioner will last longer, simply because they have a much shorter cooling season. On the other hand, our furnaces seem to outlast the furnaces in the north.

I have a very old air conditioner, but it still runs well. When is the best time to replace it?

A new air conditioner can save you as much as 50%-60% of the energy consumed by your old unit. You as the homeowner must make the final decision. The new units are designed to remove humidity as well as perform quietly and efficiently.

How often should I change my air filter during the year?

A typical 1" throw away should be changed about once every month. An electronic filter should be washed every month. Some high efficiency 5" filters such as Trane Aire filters can be changed semi-annually.

How can I be sure I have enough filtration?

Filtration has two main purposes. The first is to protect the air conditioning system from building up deposits in the system, decreasing the performance of the system and causing equipment failure. The second is for human comfort. A higher efficiency filter can be installed to catch more dust and pollen or to purify the air and absorb odors. And some filters can do a combination of the above. Basic 1" filtration is sufficient for protecting the equipment. Past that, filter selection should be base on your needs.

What types of high efficiency filters are available?

Several types of high efficiency filters are available that accomplish different tasks and have varying maintenance requirements. There are electronic filters that use 115 volts that primarily target small particulate matter. These are very effective but have to be cleaned monthly to keep its efficiency high. There are also throw-away type 5" thick media filters that are just as effective as electronic but only have to replaced once per year. This filter must be installed and maintained with care as they can restrict air-flow over time. On the larger systems two filters may be needed. The highest form of this type of filter is the HEPA filter. These filters are replaced every two to three years, however, they are so restrictive they can only filter a potion of the total amount of air going through the system. An additional high efficiency filter may be needed in conjunction with a HEPA filter. Some filters incorporate the above throw-away media with an ultraviolet light. The UV light kills bacteria and some even create ozone which is effective against neutralizing odors. Lastly, there are charcoal filters which absorb odors. These filters are the most effective against odors but are the most expensive to maintain and require frequent replacement.

Will programmable thermostats save me money on energy bills?

Yes, these thermostats can save energy by lowering or raising the temperature of a house while away during the day or set back at night. However, it is not recommended to set the temperature more than 4 or 5 degrees as it may take the system several hours to catch up if the system is set back too high.

What causes the odor when I us my air conditioning for the first time each summer?

For the majority of homes the first air conditioning operation will wash the indoor coil with condensate and remove dust and other particulates that have accumulated over the winter. If the odor persists it could be what is called the "Dirty Sock Syndrome". Studies show this may be caused from bacteria living on the coil surface. Cleaning the coil and UV lights have proved effective, however, replacement has been the only remedy in some rare cases.

If my air conditioner isn't cooling does that mean I need a new unit?

Many minor service problems can diminish the cooling process such as a dirty filter, outdoor condenser, and indoor evaporator coil. Another cause could be caused by a leak in the system. It is advisable to have Mooneyham's service technician evaluate the systems performance and either repair the system or recommend a replacement or upgrade.

If the outdoor unit of my heat pump needs replacing, should I also replace the indoor component?

Heat Pumps should be replaced as a matched system using the same manufacturer. If a system is not properly matched then service problems such as freezing or failing in the heat mode could occur. If the system is only a couple of years old then you might be able to replace the unit with a like manufacturer and model number.

When is the best time of year to replace my air conditioner?

It is advisable to replace the system as soon as the system fails. If you wait until it gets hot you may have to wait because of the volume of business most heating and conditioning companies get during this time. Also, many manufacturers give incentives to buy in the off season.

Is there an ideal temperature setting for summer comfort or is it ok to lower the thermostat setting to speed up comfort?

Studies show the majority of people feel comfortable with a cooling temperature of 75 degrees and a heating temperature of 70 degrees. Also, most houses are designed on this standard. However, individual comfort standards may vary. It is advisable to tell the system designer these preferences in order to design a system that will meet all of your needs.

Can my air conditioning help control my humidity problems?

Yes, an air conditioner not only cools the air but also removes humidity in the air. However, an air conditioning system cannot be responsible for removing all of the required humidity, as it does not run all of the time. Variable speed indoor motors and two speed air conditioners remove several more times the humidity as regular single speed units but a whole house dehumidifier may be required for extreme humidity problems.

How much money could I expect to save by replacing my old air conditioner with a newer, more efficient model?

Savings are based on the size of the equipment, temperature settings, and the equipments run times. A system that is more than 20 years old should be about a 6 SEER unit. If you were to replace that unit with a 12 SEER unit then you should expect to save about half of the cooling portion of electrical bill. For smaller homes with one or two systems the cooling portion of the bill in the summer constitutes about 60%. So, on a $200.00 bill your cooling portion would be about $120.00. Therefore you could save about $60.00 for that month. Obviously this is a rule that does not apply in all situations but is a general guide. Also, higher efficiency product brochures will give examples of savings. These brochures can be requested or seen on web manufactures websites.

How can using my ceiling fan help control my home's indoor comfort?

Ceiling fans can help circulate and mix in areas such that have tall ceilings that tend to stratify the air. They can also help to keep the air moving while the system is off to help maintain your comfort.

Should I convert my air conditioning system over to the new environmentally friendly refrigerant?

The benefits of a new R-410A refrigerant over the existing R-22 refrigerant it that it is better for the environment. But, R-410A units are only available in the higher SEER 12 and above. If your budget does not allow a higher efficiency system or you only want to replace one component on your current system then you can still have confidence in your R-22 purchase. R-22 will still be manufactured until 2020. Only the equipment using R-22 will no longer be made after 2010. Eventually, the new refrigerant will be the standard and much cheaper and the older R-22 refrigerant will become more expensive as it is phased out.

Should I replace my indoor evaporator coil when I replace the outdoor air conditioner?

It is usually advisable to replace the indoor coil with the outdoor unit especially if the newer unit is of a higher efficiency value. This will ensure the new air conditioner will work properly and efficiently. If the system is more than 10 years then the coil should definitely be replaced because older coils were usually less efficient and had metal drain pans that would rust and eventually leak.

Why do my lights flicker when my air conditioner turns on?

Light flicker associated with the starting of appliances usually does not pose any safety problems and does not damage appliances. Proper wire connections and grounding are necessary to reduce flicker. Contractors and homeowners should check with their local utility regarding the appropriate wire size and transformer servicing the home. In cases where light dimming is related to the starting of a central air conditioner, and the previously discussed steps have not resolved the situation, manufacturers offer start assist kits that can be purchased which may help reduce flicker.

The air coming from the registers feels cool when my new heat pump is set for heating; is there a problem?

While a heat pump is perfectly capable of effectively heating your home, the temperature of the air coming out of the registers confuses some people. The air is heated to about 90 to 95 degrees, depending on the outdoor temperature. This temperature is approximately 20 to 25 degrees warmer than the indoor air temperature and will warm your house. It is, however, below body temperature (98.6 degrees) and can feel cool when someone puts their hand in the airflow.

Gas furnaces

How do furnaces work?

Gas - and oil-fired furnaces provide warm, even heat throughout your home by circulating heated air through ducts.
The heat is created by burning the fuel (gas or oil) inside your furnace. (furnaces use outside air to help burn the fuel.) When the fuel burns, the hot gases that are created go through curved metal tubing called a heat exchanger and then out of your home through a metal or plastic vent pipe. At the same time, the air that circulates through your ducts passes over the outside of the heat exchanger and takes on the heat from the hot metal. The warm air is then circulated through your home. (By keeping combustion air and supply air separate, the heat exchanger allows the air in your home to be heated without contaminating it with the toxic by-products of combustion.)

Some furnaces offer additional features that provide greater comfort (as well as additional energy savings). Two-speed furnaces can run on low speed up to 80% of the time, so they operate more quietly and run for longer periods of time than single-speed furnaces. Longer operating periods translate into fewer on/off cycles, fewer drafts and much smaller temperature swings -- only one or two degrees instead of the four-degree swings common with single-speed furnaces. Plus, better air circulation helps prevent air "stratification" - warm air rising to the ceiling and cold air settling on the floor. In short, you get consistent, even heat throughout your home.
Variable-capacity furnaces provide the ultimate combination of comfort, efficiency and quiet performance. In addition to the benefits of two-speed furnaces, they offer "smart" motors than can monitor your home's comfort needs and automatically adjust the volume and speed of air to provide the most efficient heating or cooling. They offer added electrical efficiency as well: the "smart" fan motors on variable-capacity furnaces use less electricity than a 100-watt light bulb. They operate so efficiently that they can actually increase the efficiency rating of your central air conditioning system and offer you added energy savings when you use continuous fan operation

My PILOT LIGHT is OUT. What should I do?

Your Gas Company will light it. If it still will not light have them check thermostat and power.

My PILOT LIGHT is ON, but my furnace is not operating - what should I do?

First, check for power, check fuses and/or ON-OFF switch. Next, check thermostat for proper setting. If none of these approaches work call Mooneyham Heat & Air Conditioning.

Why is my furnace blowing out cold air?

It could be a thermostat problem; something is in the flue, transformer or "Main Board".

My furnace has a funny smell, what could it be?

It could be dust, pet hair and/or burning pollutants can cause an unpleasant odor. More seriously, it could be a gas leak.

How can I tell whether my furnace has a CARBON MONOXIDE leak?

Have Your Gas Company or Mooneyham Heat & Air Conditioning come out to check for cracks in heat-exchanger.

Why does my furnace not put out enough heat?

Improper combustion, restricted air flow, leaks in the duct work or improper design, could all play a role.

Why is my furnace so noisy?

It could be a worn fan belt, bad bearings or bearings in need of lubrication.
Why do the registers at the far end of my home have little or no airflow?
The ductwork could be leaking or be the wrong size.

What kind of system do I need to keep my home comfortable?

Since most of us spend the majority of our time indoors, it makes sense to have an indoor environment that's healthy and comfortable.
While your home may have unique needs, the best way to insure your comfort and health is to have your heating and cooling system provide the right balance of heating, air conditioning, air cleaning and humidification. No other single system plays a larger part in how much you enjoy your time at home or in how much you pay out to utility companies each month.

What should I ask my dealer (or builder) about before I purchase a system?

Quality & Reliability.

When you buy a new car, the quality of it helps determine how well it will perform and for how long. A heating and cooling system is really no different. Purchasing a brand name that has a reputation for quality and reliability can save you headaches and extra expense down the road. Ask your dealer about the brand's reputation for quality and its record for reliable performance.

Efficiency Ratings.

Make sure you ask your dealer about the efficiency rating for the furnace, heat pump or air conditioner. It will tell you how efficiently the unit uses fuel(gas, oil or electricity). Furnace efficiency is measured as AFUE, and ratings range from 78% to about 96.6%. Furnaces with AFUE ratings from 78% to 80% are considered mid-efficiency; ones with AFUE ratings above 90% are considered high-efficiency.

Air conditioners and heat pumps have cooling efficiency ratings from 10 to 19 SEER. Heat pumps also have heating efficiency ratings from 6.8 to about 10 HSPF. High-efficiency units have efficiencies of 12 SEER and 7.5 HSPF or above. One other point to keep in mind is that your heat pump or air conditioner is a "split system," which means that there is an outdoor unit (condenser) and an indoor unit (evaporator coil). If you're replacing an existing system, both units should be replaced to make sure your new condensing unit gives you optimal performance, efficiency and comfort. In general, the higher the efficiency of the unit, the more it will cost but the less fuel it will use to heat or cool your home. So the cost to replace your old, inefficient unit (or to move up to a higher efficiency model) is paid back through lower utility bills.

Sound Ratings

There's a good chance you won't ever think about the sound level of your air conditioner or heat pump ... until, that is, you try to enjoy a quiet conversation with some friends in your back yard. Sometimes noise from condensing (outdoor) units even interferes with your peace and quiet indoors, so it's a factor you should at least look at when you're comparing different models. The sound level of outdoor units is measured in bels (similar to decibels), on a scale from 0 (barely perceptible sound) to 13 (the threshold of pain). Most air conditioners and heat pumps operate at 8 to 9 bels; some units' ratings are as low as 6.8. That may not sound like a wide range, but consider this: 9 bels sounds 10 times louder than 8 bels. That means one 9-bel air conditioner is as loud as 10 units rated at 8 bels. So we think taking the time to compare bel ratings is pretty sound advice.

Comfort Features.

Some furnaces, heat pumps and air conditioners offer additional features that provide greater comfort (as well as additional energy savings). Two-speed units can run on low speed up to 80% of the time, and offer fewer drafts, smaller temperature swings, and better air circulation for more consistent heating or cooling throughout your home. Variable-capacity furnaces provide even more added comfort features for the ultimate combination of comfort, efficiency and quiet performance. They can also increase the efficiency rating of your central air conditioning system and offer you added energy savings when you use continuous fan operation in any season.

The Right System for Comfort.
For the optimal combination of comfort and efficiency, a total comfort system is your best bet. By matching a furnace and air conditioner (or heat pump and fan coil) with the right products for air cleaning, ventilation, humidity and system control, you can make your home a much more comfortable place to spend your time and save money on your energy bills.

Warranties.
For your peace of mind, be sure to ask your dealer about the manufacturer's warranty that comes with your new heating and cooling system. You should particularly ask about the length of time your equipment is covered and what specific components are included under the warranty. Additional extended warranties may also be available from the manufacturer or directly from your dealer.

How do thermostats work?

Thermostats help your heating and cooling equipment maintain the optimal temperature setting with the utmost energy efficiency. Today's electronic models are a vast departure from earlier mechanical styles. Microprocessors allow you to program your home temperatures to suit your lifestyle, so you can keep things comfortable while you're home and automatically set back your temperatures to save energy when you're away or sleeping. Electronic thermostats work in much the same way as older, manual thermostats did. The microprocessor inside compares the thermometer reading of a room's temperature to the desired temperature you select. Then, it gives start and stop commands to the heating or cooling system to bring the temperature to a level that makes you comfortable. Programmable thermostats basically work the same way, but they are far more convenient. Once you program the thermostat to customize the system's operation to fit your lifestyle and schedule, all you have to do is relax and let it do all the work. You simply program into its memory the temperatures you need, at what time of the day, to stay comfortable and save energy all season. You only need to program it once - until the season or your lifestyle changes. The most important way that a programmable thermostat saves energy is in its setback feature. When you don't need a normal level of heating or cooling, you can program the thermostat to set the temperature back until the next pre-programmed time when you want normal temperatures. Programming temperatures around 63 F on cold winter nights, when you're snuggled under blankets, can help you save as much as 15% on your heating costs. You can save even more by programming your system to "setback" the temperature when your family is away at work, at school, or on vacation. In summer, setbacks work much the same way for central air conditioning.

Air Filtration

Breathe Easier.

Today's "tighter" homes are built to be more energy-efficient, and many seal in air as effectively as they keep the weather out. That may sound good at first, but it also means that air quickly gets stale. Plus, dust and other pollutants circulate throughout your home, settling on furniture, drapes, your heating and cooling equipment or, worse yet, your lungs. Today's mechanical and high-efficiency UV air cleaners offer trouble-free, low-maintenance cleaning that will remove up to 95% of all airborne particles and make your home environment healthier and more comfortable.

In the Comfort Zone.

Wouldn't it be great if you could turn off heating and cooling in a room the same way you can a light switch? You wouldn't have to waste energy by heating or cooling a room you're not using. A zoning system is the perfect solution. By putting heating and cooling where you need it most, zoning can enhance your overall comfort and reduce your energy costs - by as much as 30%! No matter what climate you live in, you'll find the best combination of comfort and energy savings with a complete indoor comfort system. Today's energy-efficient components work together to give you precise temperature control, healthy air and the right level of humidity - and the savings on your utility bill might just make you the most comfortable of all.

What is Indoor Air Pollution?

Indoor air pollution consists of toxic gases or particles that can harm your health. These pollutants can build up rapidly indoors to levels much higher than those usually found outdoors. This is especially true if large amounts of a pollutant are released indoors. Moreover, "tighter" construction in newer homes can prevent pollutants from escaping to the outdoors.

My allergies seem to bother me a lot at home. What can I do?

At least, change your AIR FILTERS. You might also consider having your AIR DUCTS cleaned. Much of the dust, mites and other debris that build up in the AIR DUCTS are circulated into the air of your home.

What are the benefits of an AIR FILTRATION system?

An Air Filtration system removes dust, pollen, spores and smoke. It can also reduce the cost of Furnace and Air Conditioner maintenance.

Ultraviolet Germicidal Light

The Clarion UV Light is the perfect addition to today's tightly constructed, highly energy efficient homes. These homes are built to seal in heated or cooled air for maximum economy. Unfortunately, they also do a great job of trapping mold, bacteria, viruses, fungi, dust, and other irritants. Filters help control some of these pollutants, but the Clarion UV Light actually eliminates all of them, leaving your home's air cleaner and fresher.

What are airborne contaminates?

There are three very broad categories of airborne contaminates: (a) microorganisms (mold, viruses, bacteria, protozoa, etc); (b) toxic gases, commonly called volatile organic compounds VOC's); (c) particles, commonly called house dust. Q2. Have indoor airborne contaminates increased? Yes! We now use more organic chemicals in our homes that decay into gases, VOC's. Indoor VOC's have increased by a factor of up to eight times in the last forty years. Next we have changed our homes in such a way to accelerate growth of microorganisms. Self defrost refrigerators, air conditioning and energy tight homes, are a few examples, that now provide nesting grounds for accelerated growth of mold and bacteria that mix with the air we breathe. Airborne house dust is a by-product of our living indoors, from dead skin, to hair, to paint flakes, to dust mite feces. Since we now live indoors up to 95% of the time, more house dust is produced.

How do these airborne contaminates affect my health?

In ranking the three groups of contaminates, we'd have to select microorganisms as the most dangerous. Bacteria and mold not only are pathogenic (cell eating), but they can produce airborne toxins. Mold enzyme is one of the most powerful allergens known. More than eight million people die each year from airborne germs. Perhaps the next most dangerous are the airborne VOC's. VOC's, like carbon monoxide poisoning, can be life threatening. They can also have a long-term threat, the cause of cancer. House dust would be the least dangerous of the three, but can be a source of allergies and germ growth.

Is there something common about the three categories of contaminates?

Yes! All three causes illnesses of some type. But there is a chemical thread that is common to each: all three are based upon organic chemicals, or carbon based molecules. The most common combination is carbon and hydrogen (called hydrocarbons), but also included in the group can be nitrogen and oxygen. Microorganisms, VOC's and house dust are all based upon some form of organic compounds. It is the intrusion of anything organic into the human body that generally causes a reaction, in the form of diseases, allergies and toxic poisoning.

Are airborne contaminates more dangerous than other sources?

Yes! Stomach acids and the digestive process destroy most common bacteria ingested into the stomach, unless overwhelmed by sheer numbers. No such defense exists for the lungs other than the immune system. Lung tissue is extremely delicate and susceptible to intrusion of germs and microscopic particles. Further, the volume of air we breathe is about seven times the weight of the food we eat each day. Bottom line: we now live indoors a larger percentage of time, where airborne contamination is now higher. And we breathe in a volume of air that is seven times larger than food intake. We take this volume into an organ of the body that is more susceptible to diseases.

CLARION ULTRA-VIOLET AIR FILTRATION-SIMPLY THE BEST!

What is ultraviolet?

Ultraviolet (UV) is a broad category that fits into the spectrum of electromagnetic energy. X-ray and common electricity are examples of electromagnetic energy. There are others, like gamma, infrared, radio, cosmic and visible rays. UV wavelengths are longer than x-ray and shorter than visible light. UV has three categories: UVA (long-wave UV), UVB (medium-wave UV) and UVC (short-wave UV).

Is UV germicidal?

Yes! UVC, short-wave energy, is in the germicidal category. The most effective germicide is a spectral line (265 nanometers) within UVC. There are other spectral lines in the germicidal category, but they are less effective.

How is UVC germicidal?

It is a photochemical process. Since bacteria, viruses and molds are so small, UVC rays penetrate rather easily into the cell DN The energy knocks off electrons from the DNA molecule, altering and breaking down the DNA structure. The process continues throughout the cell and the molecular structure falls apart. The organism ceases to exist.

How is UVC produced in lamps?

By use of a heat source within the lamp, mercury/argon gases are ionized (the heat reduces the number of electrons per molecule). The heat sets off an ionizing chain reaction that extends across the length of the lamp. This ionized material is called plasma. Ionizing mercury/argon gases emits energy in the form of UVC wavelengths.

Are there different types of UVC lamps?

Yes, two types: the hot-cathode and cold-cathode. The (a) hot-cathode lamp operates much like a common fluorescent lamp, with two filaments at each end. The filaments are the heat source (glow red-hot) that sets off the ionizing chain reaction. Because the filaments are "heaters" they age quickly and burnout in about a year. The (b) cold cathode lamp operates without filaments. Its heat source for ionizing is a high voltage discharge current across the lamp. Since there are no filaments, the life of this lamp is much longer. Clarion UV is a cold cathode lamp and is warrantied for three years

Do cold temperatures and air movement affect UVC produced by lamps?

Yes, for the hot cathode UVC lamp. Much like a fluorescent lamp, if you insert this UVC lamp into cold conditions (below 50° F) and/or high wind speeds, the internal temperature is cooled and the ionizing process begins to falter and eventually ceases. There is no heat in the middle of the lamp to keep the process going. Not so for the Clarion cold-cathode UV lamps. Since there is a continuous electrical current across the body of the lamp there is a complete heat source. This means cold temperatures and high air movement around this lamp affect the cold-cathode lamp very little.

Does UVC affect toxins, smoke, odors and house dust?

Yes! Anything that is organic has wavelengths that break the molecules apart. Place a plastic milk bottle in the sun for two years and you'd find that the bottle decayed. This is because a wavelength from the sun separated the carbon and hydrogen molecules of the plastic. Organic tissue in dead animal breaks naturally down and decays. UVC has wavelengths that speed up this decaying process in organic material. Indoor VOC's, odors, smoke and house dust are primarily organic. Thus UVC can break down these materials rather quickly. When organic compounds decay in the presence of UVC, carbon and hydrogen separate and, most commonly, form carbon dioxide (CO²) and water (H²O)

Are there other breakdown processes with UVC?

Yes! Within the decaying process started by Clarion UV units, a compound is formed, called hydroperoxide (H²O²). And hydroperoxide sets off a chain reaction by oxidizing the organic compounds that gave it life. Thus this oxidizing agent destroys organic chemical composition, whether it is germs, VOC's or house dust. In the presence of water, UVC also forms another agent, hydroxide (HO). Hydroxide is one of the most powerful oxidizing agents in existence for organic compounds. Anything organic is altered, changed and destroyed in the presence of hydroxide rather rapidly.

Is UVC similar to ozone?

No! Ozone is a chemical; UVC is electromagnetic energy, or rays. Ozone, as a chemical, can mix with the air and travel by air currents into the breathable air space. Ozone oxidizes or alters the chemical structure of material it contacts. UVC does not mix with the air, but travels by wave energy. To be effective, that energy has to be in the line of sight. Further, the UVC energy degrades within a few feet of the light source.

Are ozone, hydroperoxide, and hydroxide safe to use?

It depends upon which agent. Ozone, once formed, has a life of about 20-minutes. When it starts decaying, O¹ (atomic oxygen) is temporarily formed. It is atomic oxygen that attaches to other compounds, altering their chemical composition. With a longer life, ozone has sufficient time to mix with the breathable air stream before converting to atomic oxygen. When this conversion takes place, it becomes a danger to the lungs by aging the tissue. This is called "breathing in oxidants." On the other hand, Hydroperoxide and hydroxides change very rapidly in the presence of organic material. The life of these compounds is much shorter than ozone, preventing much of these agents from mixing into the breathable airspace. Further hydroxide converts rapidly to water when decaying organic material by stealing hydrogen from the organic molecules. In this case, hazardous oxidants are not being produced.

Do microorganisms have to be within sight of the UVC to be killed?

Yes, if just UVC rays are being used. To be killed by UVC, germs must primarily be irradiated directly. Germs can be affected by reflected UVC, but it takes longer and must be closer to the reflected light source. Few materials, (primarily polished aluminum and magnesium oxide) effectively reflect UVC. The common mirror will not. But perhaps the most effective way to kill germs indirectly from UVC is the production the chemicals hydroperoxide and hydroxide by UVC.

Placement of UVC lamp for best effect.

Where in our home should we place UVC?

Standing indoor air has such volume and is so dispersed throughout the rooms of the home, it becomes impossible to effectively cleanse it. But there is one place in most homes where 100% of the air can be conditioned every 12 to 15 minutes. That area is in an operating central heating and cooling airflow system HVAC. So if we need to clean and purify the breathable air, it should be done within the HVAC unit. It is within this system that the UVC lamp should be placed to take advantage of the one point where the total air can be cleaned.

Where to place the UVC in the HVAC system?

The ideal placement of UVC is at the A/C evaporative coil. The coil is generally mounted on the supply side just above/below the furnace housing and/or system fan. This coil is considered to be the dirtiest place in the entire system, and continually contaminates the passing air. The coil area is a dark, damp, cold place that is an ideal nursery for the enormous growth of mold and bacteria. It is considered to be the largest single source of airborne mold debris, mold spores and the aggressive mold enzyme. Placement of the UVC unit at the coil will kill the growth and clean the air stream.

Can UVC lamps function when the coil is operating with cold temperatures?

Yes, if the long life Clarion UV unit is used. It is designed for the cold, hazardous conditions of the coil region. The Clarion unit is based upon the cold cathode method, with an electrical circuit across the lamp body to heat and stabilize the UVC plasma within cold temperatures. The answer is "No" if you are trying to use a hot cathode lamp at the coil. Cold temperatures will profoundly affect the UVC intensity of this type lamp, even at 50° F. Also, cold temperatures will increase "glass-blackening" of the hot cathode lamp, further reducing intensity. And finally, the cold temperature ages these type lamp filaments faster; so the lamp has to be replaced sooner (six to eight months) compared to its expected life (one year) at room temperatures.

Will Clarion UVC do more than kill germs at the coil?

Yes! The Clarion unit will virtually turn the coil into a self-cleaning unit. How? The coil becomes jammed full of dust and mold debris. So much so it becomes very inefficient. But the Clarion has ideal wavelengths that decay organic debris, cleaning the coil in the process. Further, hydroperoxide is formed in decaying organic material, that in turn, oxides the remaining debris. And finally, water condensing on the cold coil fins, irradiated by the Clarion, forms hydroxide. Hydroxide sets off a chain reaction of organic destruction at the coil. The Clarion keeps the coil clean, operating at peak performance.

Do you still need to have a central air filter in using the Clarion at the coil?

No!

Should I have Clarion UV installed when I have my old HVAC system replaced?

Yes! The UV units will keep the HVAC system clean and scrub the air from day one. It would be recommended that in replacing your complete HVAC system, you use a new Clarion UV as part of this new system. This is a factory ready, self-cleaning, original UV coil that matches all HVAC original equipment manufacturers. The factory ready Clarion UV has the advantages of the most advanced UV technology, plus all the benefits of permanent UV, hydroxide and hydroperoxide cleaning and purifying.

What about UV against drug resistant bacteria like strain W, TB?

UVC is one of the few things now effective against these drug resistant germs. TB, strain W, is a very aggressive bacterium that is hard to cure because of its resistance to modern drugs. Where TB is making a comeback, special hospital rooms circulate the room air through air handlers with high energy UV equipment. The UV is used to eliminate the TB bacterium, to prevent contagious spreading.

What causes allergies and can they be helped?

There are multiple causes of allergies. Pollen takes more than its fare share of blame. But perhaps the most aggressive allergens in existence are related to mold and dust mites. Both of these tend to be home-dwellers. They live with us in concentrated form. The A/C coil and self defrost refrigerator spew enormous amounts of mold debris airborne. It is for this reason, many believe that up to 60% of all allergies are caused by airborne mold material. The biggest culprit tends to be mold enzyme, called mycelium. Enzymes digest proteins, and by doing so in the nasal cavity, set off a very powerful allergy reaction. Dust mite fecal pellets have a covering that is also a enzyme. Cats tend to be an allergy source for about 9% of the U.S. population. All airborne allergens are organic compounds. Thus they are susceptible to UVC and breakdown to irradiation.